This informal gathering of wine lovers took place on July 13, 2013. The group: a few from the trade, a few Burgundy collectors and a few that simply love great food and wine. The topic: 1990’s Burgundies, hopefully good ones as Burgundy is notorious for its high rate of expensive clunkers. So we scoured wine shops or dug deep into our own cellars. Each of us brought at least one wine to be paired mostly family style with Calliope’s old-fashioned and market fresh French cuisine.

We started with a 1996 Domaine Marc Morey & Fils, Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru. It was golden hued, complex and evolved with nutty almond and oxidative tones; buttressed by tropical fruit and sweet butter notes. Bright acidity kept it refreshing. © 2013 Justin Berlin

We started with a 1996 Domaine Marc Morey & Fils, Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru. It was golden hued, complex and evolved with nutty almond and oxidative tones; buttressed by tropical fruit and sweet butter notes. Bright acidity kept it refreshing.© 2013 Justin Berlin

We paired the Morgeot with a plate of oysters on the half shell to whet our appetites. © Justin Berlin 2013

We paired the Morgeot with a plate of oysters on the half shell to whet our appetites.© 2013 Justin Berlin

1995 and 1996 Domaine du Château de Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaut St. Jacques 1er Cru. The '95 was delicate with soft strawberry licorice notes, fine tannins, and a delicate finish with cherry and berry notes. The '96 was more vibrant with deeper, dried cherry notes. Jellied cherry flavors emerged on the palate with chewy cherry tannins. © 2013 Justin Berlin

1995 and 1996 Domaine du Château de Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaut St. Jacques 1er Cru. The ’95 was delicate with soft strawberry licorice notes, fine tannins, and a delicate finish with cherry and berry notes. The ’96 was more vibrant with deeper, dried cherry notes. Jellied cherry flavors emerged on the palate with chewy cherry tannins.© 2013 Justin Berlin

Calliope's luscious and shimmering Tête de Pork plate. © 2013 Justin Berlin

Calliope’s luscious and shimmering Tête de Pork plate.© 2013 Justin Berlin

1991 Camille Giroud, Échezeaux Grand Cru. Earthy, lovely and fading. Black dirt and topsoil notes over a delicate sour cherry core. Finished with pretty strawberry compote notes. © 2013 Justin Berlin

1991 Camille Giroud, Échezeaux Grand Cru. Earthy, lovely and fading. Black dirt and topsoil notes over a delicate sour cherry core. Finished with pretty strawberry compote notes.© 2013 Justin Berlin

 A helping of Calliope's Poached Salmon with Sorrel Sauce, a longstanding favorite. © Justin Berlin

A helping of Calliope’s Poached Salmon with Sorrel Sauce, a longstanding favorite.© 2013 Justin Berlin

1995 Mongeard-Mugneret, Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru, and at lower right a glimpse of the delicious Rabbit Pappardelle. The wine of the night for most of us. Extraordinary and at its peak, though easily offering many more excellent years ahead. Delicate cherry and earth on the nose, but rich, vibrant and expansive on the palate. Fragrant, bright, balanced and long. One of those Burgundies you always hope for. © 2013 Justin Berlin

1995 Mongeard-Mugneret, Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru, and at lower right a glimpse of the delicious Rabbit Pappardelle. The wine of the night for most of us. Extraordinary and at its peak, though easily offering many more excellent years ahead. Delicate cherry and earth on the nose, but rich, vibrant and expansive on the palate. Fragrant, bright, balanced and long. One of those Burgundies you always hope for.© 2013 Justin Berlin

Calliope's Terrine of Tête du Pork with a head of baby lettuce. Fresh made by the house; rich, succulent, peppery and surprisingly light on the palate. My favorite dish of the night. © Justin Berlin 2013

Calliope’s Terrine of Tête du Pork with a head of baby lettuce. Fresh made by the house; rich, succulent, peppery and surprisingly light on the palate. My favorite dish of the night. © 2013 Justin Berlin

1998 Faiveley, Échezeaux Grand Cru. Full, damson plums with a hint of menthol, opens with strawberry vanilla flavors. Finishes with dried sour cherry and dusty oak tones. © 2013 Justin Berlin

1998 Faiveley, Échezeaux Grand Cru. Full, damson plums with a hint of menthol, opens with strawberry vanilla flavors. Finishes with dried sour cherry and dusty oak tones.© 2013 Justin Berlin

1993 Bouchard Père & Fils Domain du Château de Beaune, Le Corton Grand Cru. Very appealing with strawberry, red apple and cherry notes, and a hint of kirsch. Fine, firm tannins with a slightly rustic finish. © 2013 Justin Berlin

1993 Bouchard Père & Fils Domain du Château de Beaune, Le Corton Grand Cru. Very appealing with strawberry, red apple and cherry notes, and a hint of kirsch. Fine, firm tannins with a slightly rustic finish.© 2013 Justin Berlin

1995 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, Musigny Cuvée Vielles Vignes. A Burgundy legend, but disappointing. Certainly a quality wine; with complex dried cherry, mineral and earth notes and a delicate mouthfeel, but also figgy with stewy notes plus a shortish finish. It split the group between those finding it heavy and overdone and those feeling it simply needed more time. It never really opened. © 2013 Justin Berlin

1995 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, Musigny Cuvée Vielles Vignes. A Burgundy legend, but disappointing. Certainly a quality wine; with complex dried cherry, mineral and earth notes and a delicate mouthfeel, but also figgy with stewy notes plus a shortish finish. It split the group between those finding it heavy and overdone and those feeling it simply needed more time. It never really opened. © 2013 Justin Berlin

1905 D'Oliveiras, Madeira Verdelho Reserva. Strikingly intense, complex and long on the palate. Layers of caramel, pie crust, brown butter, treacle, burnt sugar and baking spice notes with a spine of sharp, citrusy acidity. ©  2013 Justin Berlin

1905 D’Oliveiras, Madeira Verdelho Reserva. Strikingly intense, complex and long on the palate. Layers of caramel, pie crust, brown butter, treacle, burnt sugar and baking spice notes with a spine of sharp, citrusy acidity.© 2013 Justin Berlin

Calliope's Peach Tart with a dollop of whipped cream.  Crisp, sweet, tart and caramelized. Super with the Madeira. © 2013 Justin Berlin

Calliope’s Peach Tart with a dollop of whipped cream. Crisp, sweet, tart and caramelized. Super with the Madeira.© 2013 Justin Berlin

Most of the wines brought were purchased in the $50 – $150 range depending on when and where they were bought. The one big exception was the 1995 Vogüé Musigny, which currently goes for $600-$700 at shops here in the USA. As with any tasting of older wines, your results may vary due to the inevitable bottle variation found in aged wines. Please note that we made arrangements prior to our arrival to bring our own wine.

Calliope
84 E 4th St New York, NY 10003
(212) 260-8484
www.calliopenyc.com

About Author

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Justin is a Co-Founder of Vino247 and has been a wine professional for more than 12 years. He has a background in filmmaking, print and web publishing. But his passion for wine led him to move professionally to the wine world. First at one of the top retailers in the US, where he cut his teeth learning the wine business, honing his palate and writing about wine. Later he co-founded importer Spanish-Wine-Exclusives. He is also a regular taster on Wine & Spirits Magazine’s industry tasting panel.

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